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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.